Bhagsu Nag Waterfall

On the other side of McLeod Ganj from Dal Lake and the Church of St. John in the Wilderness, though still within walking distance, is the Bhagsu Nag Temple and Waterfall. This is another place I missed seeing in 1973. The walk was as scenic as the waterfall itself.

Here we have a Picture Me photo I was asked to take. I passed on my business card so they could send an email address and I could forward a copy of the picture. I never heard from any of them. It was just a matter of taking part in a tourist ritual.

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Picture Me on the road to Bhagsu Nag

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Sheep Stupa

This stupa is found as you round the bend coming out of McLeod Ganj on Bhagsu Road.

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Construction Crew

This construction was going on not far from the Bhagsu Nag Temple. Sometimes the old techniques work the best. There was no way to move any mechanized equipment onto this site.

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Heavy Construction.

And there are no phosphates or sodium laurel sulphate added to the water when you use the traditional approach to washing clothes or hair in the mountain stream.

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Cleaning the old fashioned way.

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Bhagsu Nag Waterfall

The last image is that of the waterfall itself. A popular spot for the weekend Indian tourist crowd. A trip through the grounds of the (Hindu) Bhagsu Nag Temple is required to visit the waterfall.

Dal Lake

In 1973 I did not get over to Dal Lake. In 2011 I stayed at the Dal Lake Resort. It was conveniently booked on Agoda and provided the opportunity for a four kilometer walk into town each day. The trip back (uphill) was typically done by auto rickshaw, or bajai as they are known to those who have spent time in Indonesia. (Bajaj is an Indian manufacturer who makes these three-wheeled passenger transporters.)

Dal Lake was lacking in water. When I visited there was not enough water for even a single houseboat like you would find on the Dal Lake in Srinagar. But the area was pleasant and away from the busy town that McLeod Ganj had become. The sunrise and sunset views from the hotel were gorgeous. An inexpensive breakfast could be had a short walk from the hotel at a friendly, family-run Tibetan restaurant. If I took the slightly longer route into town I could walk on the grounds of the Church of St. John in the Wilderness. I even managed to venture to Naddi, a little further off the western tourist trail. Aside from the chorus of dogs exchanging greetings at sunset it was a quiet section of Upper Dharamsala.

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Broadcast Tower and Dal Lake Resort

I guess it is appropriate for me to pick a location near a broadcast tower. The building in the center is the Dal Lake Resort.

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Dry Dal Lake

I did mention it was dry, didn’t I?

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Paddle Swan at Dal Lake

In wetter days you could paddle a swan around the lake.

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Dog at Dal Lake

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Cow at Dal Lake

Let’s end this sequence with a tourist quality scenic photo . . . something that will make everyone want to visit or revisit Dal Lake.

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Sunset at Dal Lake Resort

. . . or is it sunrise?

Church of St. John in the Wilderness

I have been negligent in adding material to this blog. When will I ever get the 1975 photos of Afghanistan posted? They were the reason for the domain name and this whole blog idea.

Oh well, let me move closer to that day by adding some photos from my second trip to McLeod Gang. First trip 1973. Second trip November 2011. The first time through I did not get over to Dal Lake or visit the Church of St. John in the Wilderness. This Presbyterian church would be right at home anywhere in Scotland. And it was here that I did my first “Picture Me” picture, with this Indian group capturing a memory of their visit to the church.

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Picture Me at Church of St. John in the Wilderness

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Church of St. John in the Wilderness

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James Bruce, 8th Earl of Elgin and 12th Earl of Kincardine, grave monument at Church of St. James in the Wilderness.

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Cemetery at Church of St. John in the Wilderness. McLeod Ganj is seen in the distance.

Mementos

“The objects for which there is no satisfactory resolution… In theory, these mementos serve to bring back the moment. In fact they serve only to make clear how inadequately I appreciated the moment when it was here.”
Joan Didion, Blue Nights

This was shared on Facebook by Andrea Baker and it struck home quite sharply. I have always felt a disconnect between photographing something and participating in it. When I set out with a camera as a photographer it is necessary to shift into the role of outsider. Some distance is necessary to be able to extract an instant record from the moment. Photography is a strictly visual medium. The visual is emphasized to the exclusion or detriment of the other senses. This sensory isolation is also isolating the photographer from full participation in what is being photographed.

Am I off on a tangent of what Joan Didion was talking about? A Google search of other quotes from this book also seem very much on target regarding the nature of photography. I guess it’s time to see if I can get a copy of Blue Nights and explore further.